Videos tagged with Parker Shotgun

This video explores the legendary Parker Shotgun, an iconic American double gun, from the Orvis Sandanona location. It aims to provide viewers with comprehensive information about this firearm. The description also includes promotional links for channel membership, ShotKam, Custom Fit Guards, Edward's Eyewear, and the Shooting Show.

Bead blasting is presented as a highly efficient method for cleaning gun parts, significantly reducing the time and effort required compared to manual cleaning. It effectively removes rust, old finishes, and grime from both large components like shotgun barrels and smaller, intricate parts. The process utilizes a bead blasting cabinet and extra-fine glass bead abrasive, ensuring a uniform finish suitable for subsequent polishing or re-bluing without damaging the metal.

This video details the restoration and reloading of a rare 1870s Parker 11 Gauge side-by-side shotgun. Larry Potterfield demonstrates advanced gunsmithing techniques, including fabricating a replacement coil spring for the lifter lock and machining custom brass shells. The process highlights the rarity of the 11 gauge and the meticulous work required to bring such an antique firearm back to functional status using black powder.

This video demonstrates the meticulous process of reloading vintage 10-gauge solid brass shotgun shells, a practice common before World War II. Larry Potterfield details the necessary tools, components like FFg black powder and large pistol primers, and specific techniques for case preparation, including custom trimming and sizing for antique firearms. The demonstration highlights the use of non-standard sealing methods like water glass or household cement due to the absence of factory crimps on brass shells.

This video details the final re-assembly and presentation of a fully restored antique Parker Hammer Lifter shotgun. It covers the meticulous process of putting the firearm back together after extensive metal and wood restoration, including fitting the stock, assembling internal components like firing pins and locks, and attaching the fore-end. The final result showcases a dramatic transformation from a dilapidated state to a beautiful, functional antique firearm.

This video demonstrates the advanced gunsmithing technique of repairing broken firearm parts using TIG welding. It covers essential preparation steps like removing old brazing to prevent contamination and the precise TIG welding process for delicate components. The tutorial also details post-weld finishing techniques, including filing and using layout dye for accurate fitting of parts like extractors and trigger plates.

This video details the 'striking the barrels' process for an antique Parker shotgun, a crucial step before final polishing. It covers using 80-grit abrasive paper with a dowel for the top rib and sanding blocks for barrel surfaces, emphasizing lengthwise sanding from breech to muzzle. Deep pits are addressed with chalked smooth files to prevent scratching, and custom-ground files are used for precision work near the rib.

This video details the process of repairing pitting in older shotgun barrels using a Sunnen honing tool. It emphasizes the importance of measuring choke depth to prevent damage and outlines a step-by-step abrasive progression, starting with 80-grit stones and moving to finer grits like 150-grit. Proper tool adjustment and lubrication are crucial for effective polishing and maintaining barrel integrity.

This video demonstrates the process of repairing a loose top rib on a side-by-side shotgun, a common issue with older firearms. It covers identifying the loose rib using an auditory test, carefully lifting the rib by melting the old solder with a torch, thorough cleaning and preparation of the surfaces, and re-soldering the rib using 50/50 solder and improvised clamping methods. The finishing steps involve removing excess solder and cleaning the joint precisely.

This video demonstrates essential metal polishing techniques for firearm finishing, focusing on preparing parts for bluing. Larry Potterfield emphasizes starting with coarser grits (like 100) to remove pits and scratches, progressing to finer grits (240, 320) for a smooth finish. He highlights the importance of using fixtures for small or difficult-to-hold parts to ensure an even surface.