Ballester Molina Detail Strip and Inspection

Published on February 16, 2018
Duration: 39:46

This video provides a detailed, step-by-step guide to disassembling and reassembling the Argentine Ballester Molina service pistol. The presenter, Eric from Iraqveteran8888, walks viewers through the entire process, highlighting key differences from the 1911 platform and diagnosing a failure-to-fire issue caused by rust and corrosion in the firing pin channel. The guide covers the removal of all major components, including the slide, barrel, frame internals like the sear, hammer, and leaf spring, and offers tips for reassembly, particularly for challenging parts.

Quick Summary

The Argentine Ballester Molina service pistol often suffers from rust and corrosion in its firing pin channel, leading to failures to fire. Disassembly reveals differences from the 1911, including an internal leaf spring for the sear and a non-removable trigger transfer bar. A simple firing pin test involves dropping a pin down the barrel and firing; it should be ejected forcefully.

Chapters

  1. 00:00Introduction to Ballester Molina
  2. 00:42Diagnosing Failure to Fire Issue
  3. 01:10SDI Gunsmithing Recommendation
  4. 01:59Ballester Molina vs. 1911 Differences
  5. 02:55Slide Disassembly
  6. 03:58Recoil Spring and Barrel Removal
  7. 04:50Interesting History: Captured German Metal
  8. 05:30Internal Extractor and Back Plate Removal
  9. 06:11Identifying Rust in Firing Pin Channel
  10. 06:33Slide Stripped
  11. 07:00Frame Disassembly: Grip Panels
  12. 08:35Frame Differences: Trigger, Mag Catch, Sear
  13. 09:25Removing Safety Lever
  14. 10:20Magazine Catch Removal
  15. 11:21Trigger and Transfer Bar Explanation
  16. 13:07Main Spring, Sear, and Hammer Removal
  17. 14:39Sear and Hammer Free Movement
  18. 15:01Hammer Strut and Spring Assembly
  19. 16:48Main Spring Cup and Spring
  20. 17:07Sear Removal
  21. 18:20Frame Stripped (Except Trigger Bar)
  22. 18:39Firing Pin Authority Test Trick
  23. 18:53Cleaning and Preparation
  24. 20:03Reassembling Hammer Strut and Spring
  25. 21:45Reassembling Sear and Leaf Spring
  26. 23:51Securing Sear and Leaf Spring Assembly
  27. 25:45Reinstalling Sear Pin
  28. 26:16Reinstalling Safety Lever
  29. 27:08Reinstalling Magazine Catch
  30. 29:34Reinstalling Grip Panels
  31. 31:31Frame Function Test
  32. 31:46Reassembling Slide Components
  33. 32:06Diagnosing Barrel Pin Issue
  34. 33:31Slide Function Check
  35. 34:13Final Reassembly: Barrel, Spring, Guide Rod
  36. 35:12Reinstalling Barrel Bushing
  37. 36:09Slide Lock and Function Check
  38. 36:42Firing Pin Function Test (Pin Drop)
  39. 37:13Test Firing the Ballester Molina
  40. 38:11Test Firing with Hollow Points
  41. 39:08Channel Support and Outro

Frequently Asked Questions

What are common issues with the Argentine Ballester Molina service pistol?

A frequent issue with the Ballester Molina is rust and corrosion, particularly within the firing pin channel. This can prevent the firing pin from moving freely, leading to light strikes or complete failures to fire. A walking barrel lock pin can also cause binding and reliability problems.

How does the Ballester Molina differ from a 1911 pistol?

The Ballester Molina is not a true 1911 and has several key differences. It features a distinct frame beaver tail angle, proprietary grip panels, and an internal extractor. Crucially, it uses a leaf spring within the frame for the sear instead of a mainspring housing, and its trigger transfer bar is a permanently pressed-in component.

What is the recommended method for testing firing pin function on a Ballester Molina?

After reassembly, ensure the pistol is unloaded. With the hammer cocked, place a small pin or similar object down the barrel. Squeeze the trigger; if the firing pin is functioning correctly, it should forcefully eject the pin across the room, indicating adequate striking energy.

How do you prevent cross-threading screws when reassembling the Ballester Molina grip panels?

When threading screws into the Ballester Molina frame, apply slight pressure, then back the screw off slightly. Reverse the direction until you feel a distinct 'click,' indicating the screw has found the initial thread. Then, proceed to thread it in normally. This old machinist trick helps avoid cross-threading.

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