Loading 300 Blackout - ep 1 - Forming brass

Published on September 4, 2015
Duration: 36:21

This video details the process of converting 5.56 brass into 300 Blackout cases. It covers cutting the brass, sizing it in a 300 Blackout die, trimming to length, and a preliminary annealing process. The instructor emphasizes the importance of proper case preparation for successful reloading and highlights potential challenges and techniques for beginners.

Quick Summary

Converting 5.56 brass to 300 Blackout involves cutting the case below the shoulder, sizing it in a 300 Blackout die, trimming to 1.358 inches, and optionally annealing. Popular powders include H110/Winchester 296 and IMR 4227, while Barnes 110-grain Tac TX bullets are noted for their consistency.

Chapters

  1. 00:01Introduction to 300 Blackout Build
  2. 00:44Firearm Components and Suppressor Setup
  3. 01:45Sourcing Reloading Powders for 300 Blackout
  4. 02:40Selecting Bullets for 300 Blackout
  5. 04:04Choosing Reloading Dies
  6. 06:10Powder and Bullet Testing
  7. 06:43Bullet Weight Consistency Check
  8. 07:37Converting 5.56 Brass to 300 Blackout
  9. 08:01Preparing 5.56 Brass for Conversion
  10. 08:51Why 300 Blackout is Great for Reloading
  11. 10:33Reloading Press Capabilities
  12. 11:20Testing Brass Durability
  13. 12:19Initial Case Prep: Cleaning and Decapping
  14. 12:40Step 1: Chopping Brass
  15. 13:13Chop Saw Modifications and Safety
  16. 14:15Technique for Chopping Brass
  17. 15:58Post-Chop Deburring
  18. 18:40Ballpark Measurement of Cut Brass
  19. 19:09Step 2: Forming the Brass
  20. 19:19Lubricating Brass for Sizing
  21. 19:57Sizing the Formed Brass
  22. 21:07Double Sizing Process
  23. 22:02Initial Formed Brass Length
  24. 23:42Press Performance on Forming
  25. 23:46Initial Forming Complete
  26. 24:06Trimming Brass: Tooling Issues
  27. 24:22Bench Mounting for Trimming
  28. 24:28Setting Up for Trimming
  29. 25:20Post-Trim Measurement
  30. 25:52Completed 300 Blackout Brass
  31. 26:06Trimming Process Overview
  32. 26:37Pile of Trimmed Brass
  33. 26:48Lesson Learned: Precise Trimming
  34. 27:45Step 3: Annealing Brass
  35. 28:37Annealing Setup and Gas Choice
  36. 29:02Annealing Tooling
  37. 29:15Annealing Test Cases
  38. 30:19Annealing Test Results: Too Much Heat
  39. 30:31Adjusting Annealing Time
  40. 31:04Inspecting Annealed Brass
  41. 31:29Further Annealing Tests
  42. 32:54Annealing in Low Light
  43. 33:46Buzzing Through Remaining Brass
  44. 34:33Assessing Annealing Effectiveness
  45. 35:02Headstamp Differences in Annealing
  46. 35:38Conclusion of Brass Prep
  47. 35:44Preview of Episode Two
  48. 36:02Final Brass Prep State
  49. 36:14Video End and Next Steps

Frequently Asked Questions

How can I convert 5.56 brass to 300 Blackout?

To convert 5.56 brass to 300 Blackout, you'll need to remove the military crimp, cut the case just below the shoulder, lubricate it, size it in a 300 Blackout die, trim it to the correct length (1.358 inches), and then optionally anneal it.

What are the recommended powders for reloading 300 Blackout?

Popular and effective powders for 300 Blackout reloading include H110, Winchester 296 (which are the same powder), and IMR 4227. These are often used for both supersonic and subsonic loads.

What is the correct trim-to length for 300 Blackout brass?

The standard trim-to length for 300 Blackout brass is 1.358 inches. It's crucial to trim cases to this length for proper chambering and reliable reloading.

Is annealing brass necessary for 300 Blackout reloads?

While not strictly mandatory for every reload, annealing 300 Blackout brass can significantly extend its case life and improve consistency by restoring the temper of the brass neck and shoulder. It's a recommended step for serious reloaders.

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