Anvil 090: Mainspring Fabrication, 1812 Springfield

This expert-level guide provides a detailed, step-by-step walkthrough for reassembling the Ruger 10/22 Rifle, presented by an instructor from Ruger Firearms. It covers safety precautions, component reinstallation, and crucial function checks, emphasizing the use of specific tools like a 5/32" Allen key and a small punch. The instruction is clear and authoritative, suitable for intermediate skill levels.

This guide details the disassembly process for the gas trap variant of the M1 Garand, highlighting its differences from the later, more common models. It involves removing the bolt and operating rod first, then a specific screw to release the gas trap, followed by the sight block, before the gas trap assembly can be rotated off. This early design proved less reliable than the later gas piston system.

This guide details the process of fitting and trimming an aftermarket rail intended for a 6-inch barrel Colt Python to a 4-inch barrel model. The primary challenge is the difference in barrel ramp angles, which prevents a flush fit. The process involves cutting the rail to size and applying a finish to the exposed metal.

This guide details the installation of Slick Shot stainless steel nipples on a Pietta 1860 black powder revolver. The upgrade aims to improve reliability by preventing cap fragments from jamming the cylinder and potentially enhancing ignition consistency due to a larger internal passage. The process involves unscrewing old nipples and installing the new ones, with a specific note on using Remington #10 caps.

This guide details the process of upgrading Colt Grizzly and Kodiak revolvers by replacing rubber grips with aftermarket wood grips and installing a fiber optic front sight on the Grizzly. The speaker emphasizes the aesthetic and functional improvements gained from these modifications, noting that parts interchangeable with Colt Pythons will also fit these models. The process involves careful removal of old parts and precise installation of new ones, including the use of Loctite for sight security.

This guide details the process of removing CMMG's Plan B style muzzle devices, which are secured with Hot Lock thread locker. The video explains that if the device is not heat-cured, it can be removed with a 13/16 inch wrench. However, if heat-cured through shooting or direct application, removal requires soaking in water for at least 30 minutes, potentially followed by a penetrating lubricant. The presenter, Mike from CMMG, emphasizes that heat-curing makes the attachment permanent.

This guide details the expert gunsmithing process of sleeving a Peabody rifle's chamber to .45-70 Government, as demonstrated by Mark Novak. The modification involves precise machining on a lathe and milling machine to adapt the breech and extractor for the larger cartridge. Crucially, the rifle is only safe for black powder loads due to structural modifications.

This guide details a meticulous, conservation-focused restoration of a flood-damaged Mauser K98, led by Master Gunsmith Mark Novak. It covers advanced techniques for rust removal, wood repair, and finish preservation, emphasizing the importance of retaining historical integrity over achieving a pristine appearance. Novak's expertise is evident in his use of specialized tools and adherence to established gunsmithing principles from authors like Jerry Kuhnhausen.

This guide details the firing sequence of the 1918 Chauchat light machine gun as demonstrated by expert Mark Novak. It covers safe handling, live fire, and a detailed analysis of the weapon's unique long-recoil action using slow-motion footage. Novak's expertise is evident in his proficient handling and clear explanation of the mechanical operation.

This video details the conservation of a barn-found LC Smith 20 Gauge shotgun. Mark Novak demonstrates critical steps including barrel solder testing, proper disassembly with fitted tools, and analysis of the stock's inherent weaknesses. The conservation process involves boiling metal parts to convert rust to black oxide and treating the wood with oil, followed by meticulous reassembly and a successful test fire.